Whale watching in Tromsø: quietly to the whales.

The first hours belong to the landscape. You sit warmly inside behind large panoramic windows or stand outside on one of the three outer decks. The guides speak English about the animals, about the herring, and about the Arctic. As soon as someone spots a spout on the horizon, there is movement on board.

When it comes to the whales, it gets quiet. The boat switches to the electric motor and glides almost silently through the water. Then you can sometimes hear the breath of a humpback whale before you see it. After a few hours, you head back to Tromsø, often in the blue twilight, and with a bit of luck under a green sky.

Since 2017, the most important feeding ground lies to the north, in the Kvænangen area and in the fjords around Skjervøy. That is why the boats go far out now, instead of staying in the fjords right in front of the city. The long journey is the price for the best chances.

The humpback whales are only passing through. In autumn they begin their migration south and stop along the coast of Troms and Nordland for a longer period. Later they move on to their breeding grounds, for example in the Caribbean or West Africa. The fjords in the north are a refueling stop before the long journey.

Almost as often, it is about the landscape. The journey through the fjords, the snow-covered mountains, and the view through the large windows impress guests even on days when the whales do not appear. The warm, comfortable boat, the toilets on board, and the hot soup are also praised.

And then the animals themselves. Guests report orcas, sea eagles, fin whales, and sperm whales whose tail fluke briefly surfaced. With 6,644 reviews and an overall rating of 4.48, this tour has a very broad base of experiences.

These months are dark. The polar night lasts in Tromsø from late November to late January. Around mid-December the sun does not show itself above Tromsø at all. Nevertheless, there are a few hours bright enough for the whales, because the twilight turns the sky and mountains blue and pink.

At the edges of the season it becomes uncertain. Guests who traveled in late January or February report in their reviews on beautiful fjord days without whales. If seeing whales is what matters most to you, do not plan the trip at the beginning or end of the season.

The most important trick is simple: a seat in the middle of the boat. There the movement is least. Eat lightly beforehand, sleep enough, and take motion sickness medication if you are prone to it. On deck, looking at the horizon helps.

In case of really bad weather, trips can be canceled or shortened. That is why the whale safari belongs at the beginning of your stay and not on the last day. That way you have time for a second try if wind and waves are too strong on the first date.

The booking conditions are fair for that. You can reserve without immediate payment, and cancellations up to 24 hours before departure are free of charge. If the forecast is stormy or it turns out that the season ends earlier this year, you can reschedule at no cost.

Guests also report that they were informed in advance at the end of the season if the whales had already moved on, and could choose between a fjord cruise and a refund. So read the latest reviews before booking, as they will tell you whether the whales are currently around.

Set a short exposure time, because the boat rocks and the light is scarce in winter. With a smartphone, it is best to film and then select the most beautiful still image afterward. A photo of a humpback whale tail fluke is something special, because the pattern is different on every animal.

Since 2010, the Norwegian humpback whale catalog has recorded nearly 900 different animals in the region. And do not forget to put the camera down once. The moment a humpback whale breathes beside the boat is most powerful when you experience it with your own eyes.

Following the advice of Visit Tromsø, start with wool against the skin, then add warm sweaters and jackets that should stay dry, and finally shoes, gloves, scarf, and hat, everything warm. With this layering principle you take off a layer in the warm interior and put it back on at deck.

Important are windproof trousers, thick wool socks, and gloves with which you can operate the camera. The outer decks can be slippery in frost, so shoes with good tread are a must. Anyone who does not have winter gear can rent warm clothing in Tromsø.

You really only need to understand a little: when the whales surface, where to stand, and how to behave in waves. The guides often show this with gestures, and fellow travelers are happy to help. The most beautiful moments of the day need no words anyway.

If you want to prepare a little beforehand, learn a few English terms: orca, humpback whale, blow for the spout, and fluke for the tail. That way, you will be well equipped on board and immediately understand where everyone is looking.

Tromsø is still worth an evening without a tour. A walk along the harbor, the view of the Arctic Cathedral on the opposite shore, where the boat passes on its return, and the illuminated city during polar night are already an experience. Taking the cable car up to the nearby mountain opens up a wide view over the fjord and the lights.

In the Polar Museum and in the city exhibitions, you can also learn a lot about whales, seals, and life in the far north. This makes a day without a boat a good preparation for the whale safari, or a beautiful memory afterward.

Honestly, it is less for you if you get seasick easily and do not want to prevent it, or if a full day on the water is too long for you. If you want to get particularly close to the whales and are not afraid of cold, a zodiac boat from Skjervøy is a better option.

And keep in mind: whales are wild, and a sighting is never guaranteed. However, if you travel in the middle of the season, dress warmly, and plan a backup day, you have the best conditions for a day you will remember for a long time.